Saturday, 29 August 2009

Malltraeth to Llandwyn...

Main image: © Novakovski

On Tuesday Mike Owen and myself took advantage of brilliant warm sunshine and paddled from the bridge at Malltraeth, up the estuary and out to sea. Heading south we reached Llandwyn Island and returned by the same route.
Malltraeth Bay is defined by Llanddwyn Island to the south and the headland of Pen-y-Parc to the north. The Afon Cefni flows into Malltraeth Bay via the spectacular estuary known as Malltraeth Sands. Malltraeth means 'salt marsh' in Welsh and flooding was a regular occurrence until 1818, when Thomas Telford built the impressive embankment known as Malltraeth Cob. Before this the estuary penetrated far inland and almost cut Anglesey in two. It is very pretty with fine sands and bird-haunted salt marshes, but no paths along the western shore, although the marsh and dunes along the eastern side are still part of the Newborough nature reserve.
the Llanddwyn Island is really a peninsula and is named after St Dwynwen, patron saint of Welsh lovers, who founded a convent there in the 5th century. Several crosses commemorate her and ruins survive of a Tudor church built on the site of her chapel. At the tip of the island there is a disused lighthouse beside some cottages that once belonged to pilots who guided vessels over the sandbars at the entrance to the Menai Strait.We left at 11.30 am and, with high tide at 1.15 pm, the long paddle out to sea against the tide meant we had to keep paddling to make any progress at all. Areas of the estuary can be very shallow but the deepest channel is marked with buoys and posts. It was flat calm in the estuary with a force 3 – 4 westerly right on our nose. In the distance at the mouth of the estuary we could see what was to come: waves were breaking and the sea became a lot bigger. Mike ploughed on through but my natural caution held me back until I felt confident enough.
The full force of the waves, tide and wind hit us as we turned south towards Llandwyn Island. Llandwyn didn’t seem very far away, but, with the tide still against us it was a hard slog. Sea conditions were reasonable but it was a challenge with the waves coming at us from 90 degrees. The sun was still shining, visibility was brilliant and we paddled on. As we got neared Llandwyn Island the sea got bigger and a landing looked unlikely so we kept clear, turned 360 and headed back for Malltraeth. With the wind, tide and waves now helping us, it was time to relax and enjoy a leisurely paddle back. As we got to the mouth of the estuary, the breakers were still there and we enjoyed a bit of surfing to get us back into Malltraeth Sands. Fish were jumping everywhere and I thought I must remember to bring a handline and try my luck next time.
Right in the mouth of the estuary we found an idyllic beach and landed there for a well earned break. We hugged the bank for the final paddle back to our “put in” point . It was slack water and a very relaxing end to a 3 hour paddle which included a great mix of conditions; some challenging, some exciting and most of all great fun.With hindsight, if I did it again, I would set off 2 hours before low tide to take advantage of the ebb on the way out. Then, after landing at Llandwyn, set off and take advantage of the turning tide for the return trip.

Philip Thomas.

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